The outlets were then drillend and cut out and buttons simply pushed through. Having no better alternative available at that day, I improvised and cut it out of a square-cut cable duct. I built a simple removable button bar from a plastic board in order to stay flexible in case i want to add/remove or change anything with the buttons layout, add a LED, etc later on. One option would have been to drill several holes directly into the side of the frame and mount the buttons there. I increased the frame size that is now large enough to add a ton of pieces to play with (arduinos, modules, sensors or even a second screen).Initially my design was optimized to reduce cable length, but as it turned out, it was the right choice to go for better user experience As I'm right handed I chose to move the button bar to the right side (as seen from the front) in contrary to what is shown in the plan.The second design is more or less what i built. Even though I decided to go with the second design, I included this plan here in case its better fits your ideas. My initial plan was to create a tabletop design with buttons on the front side. Rocker switch for supply voltage (i used on of this kind)įind attached two design.Buttons (i used buttons similar to these).a small plastic board for the buttons (i actually used the front panel of a cable duct).PCF8574 IO Expansion Board (available e.g.DHT22 temperature humidity sensor (HC-SR501 Infrared PIR Motion Sensor Module (Spacers, Cables, power supply are included) Moreover on its backsite it has a convenient raspberry pi mount. Its multi-layered design provides fixing holes in the frame for easy mounting the display to the wooden frame. Its cheap looking acrylic frame is certainly no eye catcher, but won't be visible. 10" display (i used this IPS model from sunfounder with a resolution of 1280×800 pixels.Common tools for wood working (cutting, sanding, screws, wood glue, black spray paint) I used a relatively robust 10mm thick board. Wood for constructing frame and front panel.
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